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An Asscher cut is a square step-cut diamond with cropped corners and a deep pavilion — essentially a square emerald cut, faceted in concentric layers that produce a distinctive windmill-shaped pattern of light and dark planes rather than scattered fire. Guru Diam stocks Asscher cut as IGI-certified, CVD-grown lab-grown loose diamonds, with 89 pieces currently on hand from our New York Diamond District desk.
What is an Asscher cut diamond, and how does it differ from an emerald cut?
An Asscher cut is a square step cut: cropped corners, a smaller table than an emerald cut, and a notably deeper pavilion, faceted in the same long, parallel, concentric style as an emerald cut but arranged around a square rather than rectangular outline. The deeper pavilion and higher step count produce a more pronounced optical effect than a standard emerald cut — a repeating, X-shaped windmill pattern of light and dark facets visible from the top of the stone, rather than the more uniform "hall of mirrors" wash of a rectangular emerald.
Asscher's vintage profile, and why it's back in demand
Asscher carries genuine cutting pedigree: the shape was patented in 1902 and became a defining cut of the Art Deco period, prized for the same deep, geometric light pattern it still produces today. It fell out of common production for decades for the same reason as most step cuts of this precision — cutting a symmetrical square with a true deep pavilion and clean concentric steps is exacting work, and natural rough yield for it runs lower than for a rectangular emerald. Lab-grown production reopens that math: rough can be grown and cut directly to the square outline and depth the shape requires, rather than salvaged from whatever an estate or rough parcel happens to allow, which is what makes Asscher sourceable as a standing wholesale category again rather than a rare estate find.
| Spec | Detail |
|---|---|
| Outline | Square, cropped corners |
| Facet style | Step-cut, deep pavilion, concentric layers |
| Typical L:W ratio | 1.00–1.05 |
| Growth method | CVD-grown |
| Certification | IGI standard; GIA available on request |
| Stone type | Certified single stones (not melee) |
| On-hand count | 89 pieces |
| Sourcing path | In-stock or made-to-order |
Setting considerations
Asscher's cropped corners carry less chip risk than princess, but the deep pavilion adds weight below the girdle that a mounting needs to accommodate — confirm ring depth clearance before finalizing a custom setting, especially for lower-profile designs. Four-prong and bezel settings both work; a bezel is common for buyers who want the square outline and windmill facet pattern to read without interruption from metal.
Sourcing Asscher cut wholesale
Guru Diam carries Asscher cut as trade-only, wholesale inventory — no retail markup — from our New York Diamond District desk (36 West 47th Street, Suite 601A) and our Los Angeles office (607 South Hill Street). In-stock pieces ship same-day from New York; a custom setting runs CAD-to-finished-piece in 4–6 days.
Asscher cut is also available in fancy color — a specialty request, since the shape's depth and step faceting show hue as a saturated wash. See our fancy color Asscher cut guide for that side of the category.
Ready to buy? Open a verified wholesale account at /signup and book time with a gemologist at /book-appointment.
FAQ
What is an Asscher cut lab-grown diamond? An Asscher cut is a square step-cut diamond with cropped corners and a deep pavilion, faceted in concentric layers that produce a distinctive windmill-shaped light pattern. It's essentially a square version of an emerald cut, with a deeper pavilion and higher step count.
How is an Asscher cut different from an emerald cut? Asscher is square rather than rectangular, with a smaller table and a notably deeper pavilion. That depth produces a more pronounced, geometric X-shaped light pattern than the broader, more even flashes of a standard emerald cut.
Is Asscher cut a vintage or Art Deco style? Yes — the cut was patented in 1902 and became closely associated with Art Deco jewelry design for its deep, geometric optical pattern. It fell out of common production for decades due to low rough yield and cutting difficulty, and lab-grown production has made it sourceable as a standing category again.
Is IGI or GIA certification available for Asscher cut lab-grown diamonds? IGI is standard across Guru Diam's Asscher cut inventory, with GIA available on request.
How fast can I get an Asscher cut stone or a finished custom piece? In-stock pieces ship same-day from New York. Made-to-order cutting plus a finished custom piece (CAD to jewelry) runs 4–6 days from our New York and Los Angeles desks.
